In the Bubble: Fashion’s Capullous Bureaucracy dates back to spring 2021

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By Steff Yotka

As Boys Spring 2021

Simone Rocha Spring 2021

In those lockdown times, everything old is back. We exchanged high-tech functional clothing and tight pants for the comfort of mid-century farmer’s blouses and space dresses and deserted hard-soled shoes for sheepskin-lined slippers. Lift your socks, crochet your own cardigans and other convenience in the proven and proven conveniences of the past. But this nostalgia for twee can last only a while; As we apply COVID restrictions for 8 consecutive months in the United States, the practical hygiene of sweatshirts and Crocs makes way for drama. Thank God for that!

Nowhere has this return to irrational exuberance been more evident than in the spring 2021 collections that have illuminated screens around the world. from Dries Van Noten’s cascading rainbow fliers to Kenneth Ize’s long hand-woven robes. A finish that has only gained ground since the end of Paris Fashion Week on October 6th?

Junya Watanabe Spring 2021

Jordan Dalah Spring 2021

Few can cut a bubble, a pouf, a complete and best quality dial like Rei Kawakubo. His collections of Comme des Garéons, as a whole, are a wonderful backing of the orb to dress: a rejection of sleeves, sleeves and trousers in favor of wrapping the frame in a small bulb of the best quality. And CDG’s spring 2021 collection didn’t disappoint with bulbous ensembles: covered in plastic and with shapes and prints, Kawakubo’s get dressedes strike a dissonant rope between coverage and pleasure. Dress protects you from your surroundings as much as it values immobility and comfort in relation to hasty movements.

Comme bubble dresses have a lot of similar spirit. Simone Rocha has tied up taffeta cape dresses reminiscent of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s 1950 double bubble taffeta number. In that year’s Vogue September factor, Christopher’s pouf was presented as a “specialty,” anything like “light as two clouds. “Jordan Dalah’s most sensible with giant sleeves and the many cocktail poufs by Ashley Williams, Jonathan Anderson at Loewe and Guillaume Henry in Patou look just as light.

Ashley Williams Spring 2021

Loewe Spring 2021

Patou Spring 2021

These ovoid dresses, with comfortable curves, look less like Emanuel Ungaro’s flashy ’80s and more in a song with the comfortable lines of Ungaro’s pair Romeo Gigli’s jacket. For all their disco glamor, Junya Watanabe’s sequin ponchos are quite similar to the Gigli “” bubble “ones that Christy Turlington wore in an old-fashioned ’80s Vogue. Elsewhere, there are lace cocoons, a set of transforming portions from Marques’Almeida, Anrealage and Angel Chen, which allow for adjustable bubbles.

The return of this enveloping form is accompanied by a psychological and physiological advantage: as one adapts to a sternum lived in Zoom, the subtleties of the bandage under the belt are less important. Enter the spring chrysalis, it may bloom. something new.

Marques’Almeida Spring 2021

Spring 2021 anrealage

Angel Chen Spring 2021

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