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By Jess Sims
What is the position of black women in the fashion world? We fight as role models, in leadership roles, we are almost mythological creatures, and even on the artistic side, it is rare to see a black designer. (Quickly call the leading black designer who is not Carly Cushnie).) When you upload the words “big size” and “luxury”, the features are almost non-existent.
Enter Danielle Williams, design director at the online store of medium length online 11 Honoré, and artistic director of the company’s new home collection, presented last month. The collection of sumptuous basic elements and enduring pieces is available in lengths from 12 to 26 and emphasizes the good looks of compatibility and function, providing women with more luxury and wearable pieces to relax, paint and play on. The value of the collection ranges from $98 to $598, which makes it less than the value of the luxury designer, but it remains an investment.
The pieces are valuable. Even in the turbulent context of Covid-19 and social unrest, Williams and 11 Honoré checked to create an ode to fashionable women in the form of neutral-colored staples that it will surely reach, long after she turned 40. He spoke on the phone with Williams about the collection, turning trends into fashion diversity and why the cut is … ahem, queen of the great fashion lovers.
Courtesy of Honoré
The 11 Honoré collection, 24 pieces that will be released in 3 “drops” that overlap for an entire wardrobe, is Williams’ little woman, who began running in the collection just after her first montage with Patrick Herning, CEO of 11 Honoré.
“After my first meeting with Patrick, I had concepts. I took those concepts and created a moodboard,” Williams says. From there, he worked with his team to analyze the existing retail area of giant sizes and tested the brands of the correct size he admired. “I was encouraged by Donna Karan’s simple seven-piece capsule wardrobe [launched through Karan as her first solo collection in 1985].”
What has emerged is a collection of undeniable but sumptuous fabrics, such as elastic satin and linen, that busy women can seamlessly integrate into their busy lives. “I’m encouraged by women,” Williams says thoughtfully. “Our lives are so diverse; You are a mother, daughter, friend, wife. Our lives are changing; it evolves day by day.”
This progression has never been more evident than in recent months, as we have adapted to living in a pandemic. The multifunctional character of the 11 Honoré collection fits perfectly into our multifunctional lives. Work, take care of the children, go out looking for work, protest: we all take at least two other hats. And with Williams’ first collection, women have a matching uniform with those hats.
Courtesy of Honoré
Speaking of pandemics, we have to ask ourselves: this collection right now? Williams says yes, pointing out the upheavals he sees with plus-size stores as evidence. “For stores, more [size fashion] is a ‘look’, as opposed to an entire market. We are a diversity of women, as women directly,” she explains. “We have other styles and prices.”
Launched in 2017 with only a handful of designers, the 11 Honoré has the number one destination for luxury fashion lovers in large sizes, offering fresh and luxury brands in sizes 12 to 26, something other stores just don’t have. Clearly, access to this market has proven incredibly profitable: last year, the company raised $10 million in financing; however, despite its wonderful success, a competitor has not yet emerged.
Williams ignores the lack of longer features in the fresh and giant length range. “A lot of those classic brands have their aesthetics in mind and nothing can replace that,” he says. “What we can do is build our own table. Don’t you need me at your table? We can build our own.”
The table Williams built is not only due to his beautiful fabrics, but also to his cut. One of Williams’ main pastimes with the collection was to find the right compatibility, as many stores (both directly and more) this vital facet of additional length design. “The hesitation [for plus-size women investing in luxury clothing] arises when you spend cash on garments that don’t go well or quality is rarely very present,” Williams says. For it, the procedure of using the correct type has a compatibility model, incremental design steps to support other lengths, and a consistent feedback cycle was required for this collection.
Courtesy of Honoré
Unless you live under a rock, it is transparent that diversity in all spaces is a verbal exchange that we have right now. And fashion is not exempt. As artistic director of 11 Honoré, Williams joins the ranks as one of the few black luxury designers, which does not escape her. “I know my ancestors are proud,” he says. “It’s a special moment. But a sadness because it shouldn’t be like that in 2020.”
Williams deepens his mind about fashion diversity: “Hiring black and dark creatives is the first step. This is the opportunity.” But there’s going to have to be more. “The timing and the maximum life step,” he says, “is to pay attention to the other people he rents and allow them to explain the spot, let them have a voice.
We also talked about how Williams navigated fashion before his recent “attention call” and the tips he can give to other women of color who want to paint in fashion. “I didn’t see many women who looked like me, so I discovered [designer] Tracey Reese,” she says. Williams Reese “your person”, someone to hold on to find inspiration to stay in fashion.
In fact, Williams continued: after a decade in the long fashion world, he joined 11 Honoré in 2019, merging his love for long-running fashion and fresh fashion, and perhaps adjusting Tracey Reese for something else.
Courtesy of Honoré
So when will fashion still open its doors to women of all sizes? Depends on who you’re talking to. But for Williams, it’s probably the right time, and this “first user” is possibly you. “If you don’t locate that user or this company, it doesn’t matter,” he says, “you may have to be the first. Put your foot in the door and shake it once you’ve done it.”
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