Ruches and Biba: The 60s come to light in 2024

From the resurgence of a London-style hotspot to the TV Palm Royale, the trends of the decade are making a comeback

Barbra Streisand used to arrive unceremoniously, Jimi Hendrix was a customer, and John Lennon’s white limousine pulled up outside. Salman Rushdie called it his “cool ’60s upbringing. “Granny Takes a Trip, the King’s Road store that opened in London in 1966 and has become a countercultural hangout, is revived with the help of the Rolling Stones.

Rushdie wrote that “for the various heads and monsters that lurk around, it’s Mecca, Olympus, the Kathmandu of hippie chic. “

Drawing inspiration from the irreverent spirit of the original, the 2024 virtual iteration will paint with second-hand clothing and unsold fabrics. Inspired by the brand’s musical roots, leftover clothing from the music retail industry will be transformed into limited-edition garments.

The retailer’s chief executive, Marlot te Kiefte, hopes to evoke a vibe of the original and motivate others to “step back and appreciate fashion. “It draws parallels between the 2020s and 1960s, with widespread political turmoil and a rise in collectivism. , as well as an interest in wellness, spirituality and psychedelics.

This resurgence comes against the backdrop of a broader resurgence of ’60s culture and fashion. The recent collaboration between fashion Leandra Medine Cohen and French brand Soeur helped usher in a resurgence of shrunken polo shirts, changing dresses, area metals and cropped hems.

On the small screen, Palm Royale on Apple TV, set in Palm Beach in the summer of 1969, features the underdog Maxine Simmons who declares, “The richest come down to combine like crabs in a barrel. But upward mobility takes a back seat: cat-eye sunglasses, scarves and kaftans. The show’s Emmy-winning dress designer, Alix Friedberg, draws inspiration from uncovered antiques from Dior, Emilio Pucci, Givenchy, Chloé and Chanel.

On the big screen last year, Sofia Coppola’s film about the young Priscilla Presley brought to the fore the fashion of the ’60s — beehives and everything in between. In London, an exhibition celebrating all things Biba opened last month at the Museum of Fashion and Textiles. In 1964, it was one of the world’s first lifestyle brands.

The ’60s also gave the impression of haute couture. At Dior, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri referred to Miss Dior, the ready-to-wear line introduced in 1967, for a collection whose soundtrack is the hit Je T’aime. . . Moi Non Plus via Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin from 1969. At the Chanel show in Manchester in December, there was a nod to the 1960s with baker’s caps and brightly colored tweed skirts accompanied by Mary Janes. In Céline, Twiggy acted as muse for straight dresses and miniskirts.

As it turns out, the temperament rubs off on younger generations: On second-hand Depop, a Gen Z favorite, searches for miniskirts increased by 30%, searches for baker’s hats increased by 17%, and searches for leopard prints increased by 235%. fashionable.

On Pinterest, searches for Biba exceed 65% and searches for styles from the 60s, outfits from the 60s and shift dresses exceed 30%. The number of other people looking for inspiration for leopard print outfits has increased sevenfold.

What is the resurgence of the 60s? Fashion and the world at large are in an age of upheaval and, perhaps in search of solace, are becoming increasingly nostalgic.

The recent deaths of leaders of the ’60s taste may also alter the mood. After making miniskirts fashionable, Mary Quant, who once described the garment as representative of “life and a super opportunity,” passed away at the age of 93, catalyzing a moment of remembrance. and birthday party of her mark on fashion.

The former actor and genre Birkin continued to set trends in both death and life. His death last summer sparked a fashion boom buoyed by his trademark Gallic taste on resale sites such as Vestiaire Collective. And the quilted bag with which it is paired has been a strangely transcendental styling trick: on TikTok, there are tutorials on how to Birk-ify your bag.

But it’s much more than the death of taste heroes. Fashion historian Tony Glenville says this decade could also witness a resurgence because “the short, blank stare of much of the ’60s is a wonderful antidote to layering and bulk. “that decade “so different from today; It’s positive and about changes, rights, short skirts. . . All fun. “

In 2024, a time of monetary hardship in the U. K. , where “we don’t socialize, paint, or play,” Glenville believes the ’60s may simply be appealing. [Looking back] through rose-colored glasses, [people] were social media, clubs were taking off, people were moving, exploring new things, it was possible. . . laugh with little money. “

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