“Weird, vintage, Y2K”: second-hand online outlets are tackling fast fashion. How long can this last?

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By Madeleine Schulz

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Last week, he burst into flames with a Depop listing: a pair of leopard and glitter print Forever 21 shorts. They originally sold for less than $30, but were indexed by $298.

What could justify that price? The answer might come as a surprise to anyone who’s rarely very online: The description compares the couple to that of Charlotte Russe, an old-school mall logo known for promoting fashion at low prices. The Russian edition of Charlotte had gone viral a month earlier, when Coachella enthusiasts tried to get their hands on a pair (Sabrina Carpenter’s replacement dancer was spotted on stage).

The short ended up selling for $198, according to the listing, which has since been removed. All that’s left is a common confusion around the actual versus perceived price of fast fashion pieces that have a second life online.

It’s also a sign of a broader trend of returning second-hand items. We’re used to inflated prices for occasional shoes or luxury jewelry out of production. But pieces from grocery mall brands and fast-fashion corporations like Forever 21 and Abercrombie were sold through Gen Z for five times the original price?That’s a lot for millennials. ” The thrill of saving, giving back, and owning anything that’s hard to come by disconnects the genuine price from what other people are willing to pay. “says Marta Indeka, senior foresight analyst at the consulting firm The Future Laboratory.

Elsewhere on Depop, a pink and white striped Abercrombie dress is on sale for $135. The description says: “Abercrombie

Debates about the ethics of pricing, investing, and what is considered “vintage” are nothing new. But as secondhand shopping becomes more common, this new explosion highlights the subjectivity of resale. What determines the cost of an item, especially in an era of viral microtrends and strong nostalgia?Is it ethically ethical to offer a fast-fashion item (long criticized for not paying staff) at such a high price and profit from it?If someone is willing to pay, does it matter?

By José Criales Unzueta

By Maliha Shoaïb

By Lucy Maguire

One of Sabrina Carpenter’s ballerinas (third from right) wore the now-famous leopard print shorts.

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The appeal of older pieces that older ones lack is their rarity, Staniland says. “It’s the façade that this item can no longer be had. And it’s worth that value because you can’t have it anymore and no one will get it. although, in reality, they may find it in the positions they are looking for.

The quality may have been better then than it is today, but that’s not the only reason why the resale of overpriced fast fashion items is being pushed.

Price has long been a reselling factor, Vermeer adds, and depends on the value paid by the seller, quality, rarity, demand, taste and marketing.

Storytelling and context are also key. The (perceived) price of an item depends on how it is advertised (“rare, vintage”) and the broader cultural context in which it is sold. On Depop, a marketer advertised a more no-nonsense Wet Seal from the 2000s as the one featuring the “Rick Owens Environment. “It sold out (for a reduced price of $28), because of the ambiance.

For those unfamiliar with high fashion, Vermeer is interested in how social media and pop culture moments drive demand. The existing obsession with tennis, for example, has the Challengers to thank. Clothing styles classified as “tennis” increased by as much as 7% year-over-year. -year to 2023, according to WGSN. In the U. S. , searches on Pinterest for “summer tennis skirt set” increased by as much as 128% in the last 3 months. And there are a lot of features in Depop.

As independent sleaze and the year 2000 continue to reign supreme, the old pieces of the brands in their heyday will benefit. According to Indeka, the fast-paced economy on apps like Depop also aligns with the existing accelerated trend cycle, meaning consumers are most likely getting caught up in viral trends and needing to subscribe to them, no matter the price.

By José Criales Unzueta

By Maliha Shoaïb

By Lucy Maguire

This doesn’t bode well for the level of consumption, Staniland says. Even if the increased interest in resale is positive and the resale of fast fashion is preferable to choice (waste), second-hand purchases as fancy do not replace shopping habits.

“If they can. . . finding the right customer and that customer is willing to pay, then there’s no harm or guilt in it. “

The case of the Forever 21 shorts shows how misleading the prices set by the dealer for second-hand parts can be. The same shorts are available lately at Poshmark for $14. the resale space. ” Gen Z needs to buy from other people they feel they know and accept as true,” Vermeer says. “That’s where I think the next wave of scalping is really going to be concentrated. “

Staniland hopes that those who resell fast fashion can find some good things and replace them. “I hope that once they get into the world of second-hand fashion, they realize that there is jewelry worth it that is more attractive and has much more important stories, and that they are older and last longer. “

Comments, questions or suggestions? Email us at feedback@voguebusiness. com.

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By Madeleine Schulz

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